FAQs

Radon is a naturally occurring, invisible, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock, and water.

Radon can enter your home through cracks in the foundation, floor-wall joints, sump pump openings, loose-fitting pipe penetrations, and other openings where the house comes into contact with the soil. It's pulled into the home by the natural air pressure difference between the indoor and outdoor environment.

Yes, radon is a serious health hazard. It's the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers and the second leading cause overall, after smoking. When you breathe in radon, radioactive particles can get trapped in your lungs, damaging DNA and potentially leading to lung cancer over time.

There are no immediate symptoms of radon exposure. The health effects of radon exposure (primarily lung cancer) typically manifest many years after initial exposure. This is why testing is so important – you can't see, smell, or taste radon.

The only way to know if your home has elevated radon levels is to test for it. You cannot detect it without specialized equipment.

The EPA recommends testing your home at least every two years, or if there are significant structural changes to your home (e.g., adding an addition, finishing a basement). If you've had mitigation done, you should retest periodically to ensure the system is working effectively.

• Short-term tests: These typically take 2-7 days (e.g., charcoal canisters, alpha track detectors). They provide a quick snapshot of radon levels.
• Long-term tests: These tests measure radon for 90 days or more (e.g., alpha track detectors, electret ion chambers). They provide a more accurate average of your home's radon levels over time, as radon levels can fluctuate daily and seasonally.
• Continuous radon monitors: These electronic devices provide hourly readings and can be used for both short-term and diagnostic testing.

Test kits should be placed in the lowest lived-in level of your home (e.g., basement, first floor if no basement) in a room that is regularly used. Avoid placing them near drafts, heat sources, or in high-humidity areas.

The EPA recommends taking action to reduce radon levels if they are 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher. However, it's important to understand that there is no 'safe' level of radon; any exposure carries some risk. The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends taking action at 2.7 pCi/L.

You can purchase DIY radon test kits from hardware stores or online. However, for real estate transactions or if you prefer professional accuracy and reporting, it's recommended to hire a qualified and certified radon testing professional.

If your radon levels are 4 pCi/L or higher, you should consider having a radon mitigation system installed by a qualified professional.

The most common and effective method is sub-slab depressurization. This involves creating a vacuum beneath your home's foundation by installing a pipe through the foundation and connecting it to a fan. The fan draws radon gas from beneath the house and safely vents it outside, above the roofline, where it quickly dissipates into the atmosphere.

Yes, other methods include:

• Crawl space encapsulation/depressurization: Sealing and ventilating crawl spaces.
• Drain tile depressurization: Utilizing existing foundation drain tiles to draw radon.
• Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRVs) or Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs): These systems introduce fresh air while expelling indoor air, which can dilute radon levels. They are typically used in conjunction with other methods or in specific situations.

Most residential radon mitigation systems can be installed in one day, although more complex installations may take longer.

A typical sub-slab depressurization system involves a PVC pipe that runs from your basement or slab up through the house or along an exterior wall, terminating above the roofline. A fan is usually installed in the attic, garage, or outside the home, depending on the system design. We strive to make installations as aesthetically pleasing as possible.

The cost varies depending on the size and design of your home, the type of foundation, and the complexity of the installation. We offer free, no-obligation estimates after a site assessment.

A properly installed sub-slab depressurization system is designed to minimize its impact on energy consumption. The fan uses about as much electricity as a 75-watt light bulb. Some systems might have a minor, negligible impact on heating/cooling, but the health benefits far outweigh any minor energy cost increase.

Yes, like any mechanical system, they require minimal maintenance. You should periodically check the system's manometer (a U-shaped gauge that shows if the fan is operating) to ensure it's working. The fan may need replacement after many years of continuous operation. We recommend retesting your home for radon every two years to ensure the system remains effective.

Not necessarily. Radon levels can vary significantly even between homes next door to each other, due to differences in soil composition, construction techniques, and foundation types. The only way to know your home's radon level is to test it.

Yes, you can sell your home. However, many states and real estate transactions now require radon testing and disclosure. Installing a mitigation system before selling can be a good investment, as it can be a deal-breaker for some buyers or lead to significant negotiation points.

Typically, no. Radon testing and mitigation are generally not covered by standard homeowners insurance policies, as it's considered a pre-existing environmental condition rather than a sudden peril.